Like all expeditions, no matter how meticulous the planning or how precise the preparation, things don’t always go as one would like them to. It sounds familiar doesn’t it? The inevitable story of how life is filled with uncertainties no matter how hard we try to control it. And how cliché of us to say ‘take life as it comes’ or perhaps ‘go with the flow’ or let’s throw a quote in from Shackleton "Difficulties are just things to overcome after all".
These sayings and quotes no matter how overused they may be, still stand as truth, the lessons in life we still need to be reminded about, no matter how mature or experienced we are.
These sayings and quotes no matter how overused they may be, still stand as truth, the lessons in life we still need to be reminded about, no matter how mature or experienced we are.
The usual folk who sign up for this kind of trip are usually a little more adventurous than our typical mid-season guests. They tend to be avid photographers who are willing to move out of their comfort zones to capture the remote and wild north in the form of the Polar Bear. The literature they receive prepares them for extreme conditions, biting cold temperatures, unforeseen challenges and the very fact that they are gambling. When you sign up for a trip to see wild animals in wild places of the North, only one thing is guaranteed: you will have an adventure of a lifetime.
I arrived in Churchill with our forty guests and their thousands of dollars’ worth of personal camera equipment in tow. As we toured the outskirts of town I noticed a huge change in snow and ice conditions since I was last in Churchill, only four days ago. The Hudson Bay was frozen as far as the eye could see, snow had fallen and the constant, severe wind had pushed it into large drifts that congregated amongst and around obstacles. While driving the back roads we decided to play it safe and get ourselves back on the main road. Although this move was a cautionary one, we soon found ourselves stuck in a narrow but thick snow drift which had covered one side of the road to the other and caused us to stop suddenly in our tracks. Thankfully our mechanics from the shop came to dig us out and we were soon on our way again.
After a day in town which would be the only chance our guests would get to see the town and visit the numerous gift shops, by night fall (4.30pm) we boarded the Tundra Buggies and headed out on the trails leading us to Polar Bear Point, where our lodge was situated. We drove in a blizzard with minimal visibility navigating by familiar clumps of spruce trees and boulders.
Our delightful lodge crew greeted each buggy, invited us aboard and it wasn’t too long before we were all settled in, enjoying the comforts of our lodge lounge, a glass of wine in hand and a tasty snacks leading up to a delicious first of eight dinners together at our lodge.
The days start early out here. Coffee at 6.30am, breaky at 7.00am and on the buggies by 8.00am. The group was separated into four buggies, each carrying ten guests and two guides who rotate, spending each day on a different buggy. Our first day out was the coldest I have ever experienced on the Tundra, even with the roaring furnace blazing, myself and most guests could not break the feeling of bitter cold. The wind blew from the North with no obstacles in its way to direct it elsewhere. Most of the animals were laying low which was expected, however the sightings were spectacular. I encountered the closest and most immobile sighting of an Arctic Fox and Arctic Hair. It was magnificent to view these creatures at a standstill, unusual for the fox is usual in constant motion, always foraging for food. The bears we saw were relaxed, seeming quite happy to ignore the audience who gathered around them.
Although the temperatures were cold, mainly because of the wind, the areas of water which we needed to have freeze to enable us to tow our lodge out to the Cape were not yet ready. We ended up staying at Polar Bear Point for three days. By this time the pickings were slim. Over the previous three days we had watched male bears venture out on the ice, heading directly north. The following day we observed all the mums and cubs appearing out from the Boreal Forest and making their way to the edge of the Hudson Bay to lead their young out on the ice for the first hunt of the winter season. On our final day one bear was sighted at sunset. Although it was a brief encounter the descending sun sent a ray of light that touched on this single polar bear in the most alluring fashion.
During the days of our venturing in the vicinity of Polar Bear Point, two additional drivers spent the days heading out on the trail to the Cape. The evening after our third day, it was announced that we would be departing the following morning. Yay…we were on our way to the Cape!
Everyone was up an hour early, stowing their gear and preparing the lodge for a rough and rocky 20km journey. While we waited around the outskirts of the camp, keeping our eyes peeled for Polar Bears as we had men working on the ground, the lodge was dismantled and each component was attached to an individual buggy. One buggy struggled to start which delayed us by only an hour and we were soon underway, the convoy of buggies towing sections of the lodge moved like a snake, as one unit followed the other. Only twenty minutes into the move to the Cape a terrible thing happened. One of the two bunkhouses lunged over towards its side as the wheels skirted the edge of a large boulder. The numerous pins holding the wheels to the frame sheared off causing two tires to literally break off from the base. The convoy stopped. We decided to serve our guests a lunch warmed up on the propane furnace as the senior staff concocted a Plan B. We had broken down on ice, it was not safe for us to set up camp here, nor did we have accommodation for forty people as one bunkhouse was un-usable. We had to get our guests to a safe and warm place…. the town of Churchill was our only option. Two buggies journeyed with twenty guests each, arriving at the buggy launching site to then board a coach which would deliver us to three hotels. We made a plan to meet at Gypsy’s for a 7.00pm dinner and after a restful night, we would meet again for breakfast. By that time we would have a better idea of the future of this Cape Churchill trip.
Despite the circumstances everyone seemed in good spirits this evening. By this time everyone had taken a long shot shower which isn’t always possible out at the lodge as we have to bring all our water in. Complimentary wine was served and the meals were full and delicious.
At breakfast every guest and all our staff gathered at the Tundra Inn. By this time we had come up with a plan. The guests were given three options.
1. Catch the 10am charter flight back to Winnipeg, hotels provided for the duration of their stay until their connecting flight. Receive a 50% refund from this trip.
2. Catch the 10am charter flight back to Winnipeg, hotels provided for the duration of their stay until their connecting flight. Receive 100% discount off another trip with us in the future.
3. Continue with the adventure, returning by buggy to Polar Bear point where the lodge will be once again situated and each early morning journey to the Cape, returning by evening. This choice comes with the understanding that there is no guarantee that there will be bears to view.
Which one would you chose? Seventeen people decided to join us so there were plenty of beds in the one available bunk house. It wasn’t long before we were sitting on a buggy, rocking and swaying our way back out to the lodge, each of us feeling that this was the right choice. The group who chose to stay were a positive lot, excited about the adventures ahead and not fazed by the early starts and what I started to call ‘the commute’ out to the Cape. That night at dinner, the dining room was filled with lively chatter and excitement for what the next day will bring.
Every day we were blessed with the company of polar bears and the most beautiful light to view them in.
The first day was family day. Two sets of mums and cubs appeared from inland, venturing out towards the coast, directing their course to the newly formed ice. We parked on the frozen lake where they traversed, in hope that they would pass us by. When they were fairly close to our buggies, they decided to sit and watch us, perhaps for the very first time. They looked in good shape, the sign of a good mother who taught her young one well. Their bodies were still filled out, evidence of last winter’s successful hunt. Shortly after they moved on and soon enough, another mum appeared, this time with two cubs in tow. This family was a little braver and decided to take a closer look. The guests were ecstatic to observe such a precious scene and try to capture it with their cameras.
The second day was play day. Two young adult males ventured from the ice to where we were situated. Open water had appeared again so we guessed that the ice is not yet formed as they need it to be. Without any exaggeration, they sparred (play fighting) then rested, sparred then rested…ALL DAY LONG. And they did so as the early morning sun shone upon them lighting them up with a golden glow. Everyone who comes to view Polar Bears all wish to witness sparring. To see these powerful animals in action, standing tall on their hind legs, swatting eachother with their muscle bound shoulders and giant paws is a sight to see.
Our final day was ladies day. At least four sub-adult females approached our buggy closely. They stopped near our buggies and sniffed the air, starring at us intimately perhaps wondering what we were and did we have food. A bear is constantly driven by the idea (and smells) of food. At times they approached us and gave us some ‘buggy love’, a term used to describe the encounter when a bear stands on his back legs and places his front paws on the side of the buggy, stretching as high as they can with their long neck and slender snout.
The formations of ice were spectacular, the frozen translucent lakes were mesmerizing and the bears were outstanding. Every day as we rose early and ventured out to Cape, we spent seven and a half hours exploring the area, in search of bears. We returned by 5.30pm in the evening feeling somewhat exhausted but each and every one of us also felt relieved that we chose to continue this adventure. Despite the beginning misfortunes that caused twenty one people to choose to return home, there were seventeen guests who chose to stay. They wanted to see the Cape, that is what they signed up for, bears or no bears they wanted to venture to Cape Churchill and view it for the first and perhaps only time in their life. Not only did we get to the Cape but we were also blessed with fine weather and incredible bears every single day. I can’t help but believe whole-heartedly that a positive approach can only result in positive experiences.
After our final and festive evening at the Tundra Buggy Lodge, the following morning we journeyed straight from the lodge out to the airport. As I said farewell to my seventeen companions I couldn’t help but feel thankful to have shared such fun times with friendly people who shared a common interest and went in search for a similar goal. As well I felt honored to have worked with staff that also joined together to make this 2011 Cape Churchill trip a success. Everyone worked hard; the cooking was done throughout the night, the buggy drivers drove long hours and the lodge was kept operating by the men who work behind the scenes and in the cold. And although we are grateful that the season ended up a success, a few other instances took place which added to the summary this rather rough, rocky and fiery end to the polar bear season. During this Cape trip, disaster struck two of our guests as well as the township of Churchill.
Two guests were forced to leave early and return to a family member who was in a sudden accident and in intensive care, with the possibility of him not going to make it. It was trying time, to be the bearer of bad news to brothers who were enjoying every second of their adventure of a lifetime.
And, the Northern Nights hotel and restaurant burnt to the ground. Thankfully everyone got out safely and no one was injured, although personal items including passports were destroyed. Both of these incidences took place before we even attempted the convoy out to the Cape.
When you hear about the above incidences it can’t help but put everything in perspective. Our mishap was nothing compared to what others were experiencing at the same time. This is yet another reminder that we must learn from these unexpected circumstances and make the best of situations when they arise. Once again we are prompted to understand that life is filled with uncertainties and we can only do our best in preparing ourselves for whatever life throws at us and in the meantime, don’t hold back from living your dreams.
Thanks for your interest
Hayley
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