A journey through the Great Bear Rainforest

September 4^th to 20^{th -}

As we cruised by zodiac deep within an estuary at the very end of one of the Inlets that attribute to the magnificent Great Bear Rainforest coastline, everything seemed just right.

Dead Chum salmon floated on the ocean surface, some lay on the bottom and others gathered in swarms in resting back-eddies deeper within the brackish-stained river.  Eagles by the tens and twenties occupied many of the Spruce and Cedar tree-tops and the chatter of Gulls dominated in the fall-fever chorus that filled every nook and cranny of the estuary.

Photo by Ann Stout - zodiac cruising through an estuary

Some of the larger creatures seemed braver than usual; perhaps this nutrient rich time of year coaxed them to put aside fear and relish in the abundance of food provided by a perfectly designed cycle.  Harbor seals could be seen as far as ones neck could turn, their shiny heads, long whiskers and generously round eyes peered above the surface. They watched us closely, some chose to follow.  At one stage we counted 25 individuals hauled out on a large snag in the center of the river; a grand perch for those that needed a rest from foraging. Yes, this is how it is supposed to be.

I boarded the 92 foot Schooner Maple Leaf on September 4^th with two delightful journey’s in the Great Bear Rainforest to look forward to. My role onboard was naturalist which meant that my job was to be out on deck with guests, binoculars continuously poised to my eyes in hope of finding precious natural wonders to expose people to. I felt right at home.

This is the only time I can get away with being excited about poo. Yes, good old, natural poo. As we wander along river trails I cannot help but delight in the offerings of bears whom pass by.  How useful  this discovery can be as it tells us so much;  what it is eating, how long ago it passed and what specie of bear is it likely to be. For the first time in my guiding career I was able to observe closely Humpback Whale poo. While hanging over the ships railings with a net in hand, I scooped up a fresh, brightly orange deposit. I was astonished to discover that it did not have a fishy scent; it smelt exactly the same as baby poo. Intriguing discoveries all in a day’s work.

This part of the coast feels different to my home-waters of the Johnstone and Queen Charlotte Strait region. It feels far removed from any town, slightly wilder having the northwest coast only islands away and as the inlets weave their way into the mainland, Grizzlies can be encountered along with the famous and sort after Spirit Bear.

Photo by Ceteaca Lab - the Spirit of the Coast

Over the past 10 years Humpback whales have returned to this region, a whale that was once hunted to near extinction and the return of the Fin whale is also being witnessed.

As we travel by schooner through protected inside waters, the scenery is in constant motion, changing by the minute. Fog, mist and gentle rain cling to the forested peaks and the granite cliffs stand like guardians.  At times I feel as though I’m seeing these fjords and creatures for the first time but that is not the case. It is the curiosity and excitement of our guests who are witnessing this grandeur for their first time that brings a sense of new back to me.

Photo by Ann Stout - the team onboard Maple Leaf

I did, however experience a few Firsts this time.  One evening as we sat at anchor, our stomachs full from yet another delightful dinner, we gathered on the outer deck, donned in our jackets to keep the fall chill from penetrating. A star-cluttered sky gave us company and then what we first thought were clouds, began to dance. As soon as the first tinge of green appeared, we knew we were witnessing the Aurora Borealis. Beams of greens and pinks darted and shimmered across the night sky lasting for over an hour.  I had only seen the Northern Lights in Churchill and up in the High Arctic, never before had I seen them in BC, my home. How exciting.

Another first was a really obvious and clearly designed Bubble-net formed by a feasting Humpback Whale.  At first we watched the whale surface just a couple of times, everyone had their cameras ready to capture the deep dive when the flukes raise elegantly out of the water just as they head down deep, often staying submerged for over 6 minutes.

Photo by Ceteaca Lab - Humpback heading down deep

After 3 minutes we stood, peering in all directions wondering when and where the whale was going to surface again. As we sat with the engine in neutral drifting in a gentle current we suddenly noticed on the port side of the ship, a perfect circle of bubbles.  It was precisely arranged in a large circle, the bubbles clearly defining the outer edge. Seconds later the whale surfaced energetically, mouth first and opened wide to devour all that was trapped within the bubble net. I was beside myself. I have seen them feeding this way but never have I witnessed the actually net that is designed to capture the schooling fish it feeds upon.

Photo by Ceteaca lab - Co-operative feeding

The 16 days I was onboard I was mesmerized yet again by the continual beauty of this coast. I made a vow that I would return in the not too distant future by kayak. To move through the passages and channels at an even slower place, and observe the subtle changes you notice when traveling intimately upon the ocean’s surface. I want to camp on the beaches where we had discovered wolf tracks and float in an estuary for hours at a time to allow nature to show me it’s all.

Photo by Ann Stout - our final evening sunset

When you travel onboard Maple Leaf, the staff and crew are not only there to give you are good time, to show you the many beauties of this region, they are also there to inform you. One of the important messages that we shared with our guests this season was our concern of oil tankers which are proposed to travel through these narrow waters and the implications of this endeavor. I encourage you to take a look at the message below written by Cetacea Lab, a whale research center situated on Gil Island. Included in this important message is a website which will help give you a bigger and more informed picture about what is proposed.

Greetings from Whale Point

We hope that this email finds you well.  We celebrated our 10^th year of whale research in this remarkable habitat and the one question we can answer without hesitation is that this region is vital for the well being of the whales. As some of you may know, our research focuses on three major whale populations that rely on these waters as seasonal and potential year-round habitat: fin whales, orcas, and humpback whales. These exact same waterways are now being proposed by Enbridge for daily oil tanker traffic. It is without doubt that the tanker routes represent the essential feeding, resting, and socializing areas of these three populations, and one may safely go as far as to call these waterways ‘critical habitat.’  Indeed, it has already been proposed as critical habitat for humpback whales, is recognized as potential critical habitat for northern resident killer whales (in need of further study), and is unique in BC for being the only near shore region where fin whales are consistently and reliably sighted close to shore for entire seasons. 

Please take the time and go to the following website, it will take you to the page where you can register to verbally express your opinions on the Enbridge Northern Gateway proposal, and its proposed tanker traffic.  There are no requirements for experience, expertise, or scientific backing.  You just have to be a Canadian with an opinion.  That opinion can be as simply stated or as elaborately articulated, as you like.  The point is that this is your only chance to speak to the panel directly and have them hear what you have to say from your heart. You must register to speak by October 6^th. You can even use written notes while you speak to them and we can certainly help out if you have any questions.  The hearings are said to be beginning in January 2012, locations will be announced once the panel sees where the registered speakers are from. The more people that register the more meetings the panel must attend and the message will become clear that the people of B.C. and Canada CARE. Please follow the link below and register before by October 6^th. If you cannot attend once the meetings are posted that is ok, as long as you register.

http://gatewaypanel.review-examen.gc.ca/clf-nsi/prtcptngprcss/rlsttmnt-eng.html

What would daily oil tanker traffic mean to these whale populations? Well, it comes down to three major impacts: acoustic disturbance, ship strikes, and the threat of catastrophic oil spill.  Tankers are the loudest vessels that ply the oceans.  Currently Caamano Sound is one of the quietest coastal areas in BC, and this area could represent one of our last chances at protecting an acoustic sanctuary for cetaceans.  Large slow moving vessels such as tankers pose a large threat for large whales like humpbacks and fin whales.  Actually, fin whales are the most commonly struck large whales.   And finally, with an average of 220 oil tankers per year plying these narrow winding waterways with several reefs and shoals, the risk of an oil spill is large, and the outcome very predictable.

Among these above notes on whales, this area is also the heart of the world renowned Great Bear Rainforest; a wilderness area with beauty and productivity beyond comprehension, that supports the only population of Kermode or famed ‘Spirit Bears’ on the planet.  Among the other land-based wildlife that relies on a pristine marine ecosystem are black bears, grizzly bears, and coastal wolves; some of the healthiest populations of these species on the planet are supported here.  These waterways are also home to nesting colonies for well-over 50,000 pairs of nesting seabirds, and essential migratory corridors for 10’s of thousands of migrating waterfowl. 

What are we willing to risk for the Northern Gateway Pipeline?  The only chance you have to speak your answer to that question is through oral statements at community hearings, which you must register to do before October 6^th. 

Please forward this message on to as many people as possible. If you are not a resident of BC or Canada but know people here that care please pass this message on to them.

We truly appreciate your time. Our coast needs your Voice!

All the best from Gil Island- Janie, Hermann and James